TRIP 8. RETURN TO KYLESKU

Towards the end of October 2019, we made another short trip to the west coast. This time we were with our neighbours, Hugh and Pam. 

Whilst the primary purpose of the trip is poignant and particularly difficult for Hugh and Pam, we have been in the habit of adding an overnight stay at Kylesku Hotel. 

Hugh and Pam's son drowned at Loch Assynt 11 years ago and they have erected a bench near the spot where this happened. We have been visiting there with them for some time. We also placed a geocache there some time ago, so that others can go there and perhaps pause for a moment.

However poignant this all is, life still has to be lived and over time we have, all four of us, extended the visit to see the part of the world that attracted their son Craig in the first place. It is a land of wild, savage beauty. Sometimes you need a bit of pampering as an antidote to the day. This is what we did.

We left Inverness at about 11am for the first leg of the journey to Ullapool. This take just over an hour if you are in a hurry. We weren't, so we arrived in time for a light lunch at The Frigate, which sits on the pretty whitewashed seaside street, next to the pier and the ferry terminal for the Western Isles.

The girls had sweet potato and coconut soup and the chaps had a lovely piece of hot smoked salmon, bread and salad. Just fine, and smoked around the corner in the village.

Apparently soup was not just quite enough and Sharon and Pam shared a lemon drizzle cake and coffee. The cake was pronounced to be one of the best of its kind that they had had ever eaten.

It was very pleasant to sit and take a bit of time with the warm sun shining in through the window. However, we had to press on.

The drive from Inverness to Ullapool is on good roads and it takes you through some very fine scenery, but things get really interesting as you go north from the village and into Sutherland.The scenery gets wilder and the landscape becomes a bit more bleakly wonderful.

We stopped for a quick photo of Cul Mor, which means in Gaelic- the big back of or backdrop. It is certainly impressive as it rises straight out of the moorland. The neighbouring Cul Beag is just as impressive, with the first snows of winter on the ridge.

It is a tantalising hint of what is to come.

From there we drive to Loch Assynt.

Craig was a bit of an adventurer and he was often to be found in places like this, climbing, walking, caving, camping and fishing.

His memorial bench has fine views to Ardvreck Castle and the snow capped Assynt hills to the east.

Looking west towards Lochinver and the sea.

The bench where, on a good day, you could easily pass some time just drinking in the solitude. It really has become somewhere special.

It was also somewhere that was bitterly cold in a very strong wind.

We left our floral tributes, but not our thoughts, behind.

 It was beginning to rain as we carried out a bit of maintenance on the geocache.

The cache had once contained one of Craig's carabiners, which we wanted people to take round the world to the kinds of places that Craig would have wanted to go. Only days before we were there, the carabiner had been placed in a cache in the Anaga Mountains of north Tenerife. The cache has traveled nearly 11000 miles to places that Craig would have enjoyed.

It was so cold and windy, that we did not tarry too long and got back to the car.

We had a bit of time before we really needed to be at the hotel, so we decided to get there along the narrow, twisting, but scenic, Drumbeg road.

We took a detour off the road to go to Achmelvich Beach. It was spectacular, with lowering clouds, howling wind and crashing waves.

Hugh and Pam had never been before, but they were impressed.

There is nothing to stop the Atlantic waves from reaching the rocks around the bay.

The sand is pristine, but it would have to be said that the wind was so strong that our faces were a little sandblasted as we walked along the strand.

We thought we might explore a little further, but the clouds were becoming a bit more ominous out to the west, so we retreated to the car.

Not before we managed a quick selfie to prove we were there.

From there, we carried on round towards Drumbeg, getting great views of Suilven and Canisp. Both mountains illustrate the wild past of the area. Canisp, on the left, is Norse and means White Mountain. Suilven is Gaelic for Pillar Mountain. Although, Canisp is slightly higher, Suilven is much more iconic and is often known as Scotland's Sugar Loaf Mountain.

The weather was spectacularly coming and going throughout the journey.

The drive itself also takes you from shore, to mountain and back to the sea again.

Another fabulous beach, this is Clashnessie. Not a soul on the sand.

We were soon at the hotel, which was as welcoming as always. After getting into our rooms and freshening up, we headed for the bar.

Pam and Hugh joined us before too long as we sat beside the roaring stove and had a welcome drink, before going back to the room for a rest and a change of clothes for dinner.

I did take a minute to take in the view from the bar before darkness fell.

All the seafood served in the hotel arrives at this little pier, almost daily. There was, however, none today due to the weather, which meant that some of the menu was curtailed. I took the view that was a good thing - the fish was fresh, not frozen, as you might get elsewhere.

It was time for dinner soon enough. As always, the service was informal, but efficient and the food was just wonderful.

Sharon started with a smoked mackerel pate with beetroot and horseradish.

Pam and Hugh both had the black pudding and chorizo salad.

I had potted, smoked lamb.

Sharon and I opted for the roasted, local pork shoulder, with braised cabbage, parmentier potatoes and carrots. Hugh had mussels and frites and Pam had a chicken Kiev.

I finished with their delightful sticky toffee and ginger pudding, while Sharon had a mini chocolate brownie.

We retired to the bar for a nightcap and were surprised by a visit from the police! There is only one policeman in Lochinver and he had been joined for the night by another from Ullapool. They said they were checking on licensed premises, but they really seemed to be there for a chat. Once they knew we were staying and not about to jump in the car, we got round to discussing the merits of various whiskies.

After they left, we headed off for a peaceful night's sleep before it was time to eat again at breakfast.

We had a fairly leisurely start to the day, chatting to some of the other guests, before sitting down to kedgeree and poached egg for three of us. Hugh had a kipper.

The kedgeree is almost like a risotto and is quite unctuous and delicious.

The food is all the more delicious as you look out of the window at this and watch the seabirds and the seals trying to get their own breakfast.

After breakfast, it was time to head for home, after one last look up the loch from the hotel.

We had decided to go via Ledmore Junction towards Lairg and then Bonar Bridge. That would allow us to stop off at Falls of Shin. The Falls themselves are a great spot to watch salmon leaping in the summer and autumn. There were none about at this time of year, but the falls are worth a look.

Here we are at the observation area above the falls. Note the blue sky.

These were the only salmon we saw today.

There is a community owned visitor centre, restaurant and shop here, designed to mimic a salmon. This is the tail at the entrance to the complex.

Before we could go in for something sticky to eat, we had to have a short walk in the woods to allow us to feel virtuous later.

Off we went on what turned out to be a really nice little stroll from the car park.

There were some quite nice wooden sculptures of animals and birds you might spot on the walk - we didn't.

We did see plenty of sunshine through the trees, though.

There is a little pond, which is supposed to be full of dragonflies in the summer.

There are big pipes for children and big kids to look through and climb into.

There were rings and poles you could throw the rings over.

We all tried and failed conspicuously.

There were some enigmatic posts that we didn't know the meaning of.

There was a picnic bench with a very fine view, which reminded us to go back to the restaurant for something to eat and a cup of tea or coffee.

Bob and Sharon had a slice of Lemon drizzle cake. Sharon liked it, but it was second to the one at the Frigate due to that one being more moist. Hugh and Pam shared a coconut and jam sponge, which they seemed to enjoy.

The restaurant is run by Mac & Wild. They are local boys with connections to nearby Ardgay Game, so they can source some pretty good local meats. They also have a bit of pedigree, with their burger joint in London being voted the best restaurant in the world by Giles Coren and one of their burgers also being accorded the best ever in London  and in the UK.

They have a nice fire-pit table outside for you to cook your own meat on.

They do lots of interesting evening meals and cookery courses such as Make your own Haggis or whisky tasting in the woods or wild cooking or foraging or outdoor eating experiences. 

If you do go in the evening, they offer the chance to stay in one of their converted Land Rovers for the night.

Sharon had a look inside.

Compact and Bijou, I think.

They provide hot water bottles and a breakfast hamper.

 Parking is not a problem.

Much as we might have fancied staying on for a starter of hot smoked salmon followed by the venison Chateaubriand, we had to get home. It was with a slight tinge of regret that we left and headed south to the comfort of our own homes rather than a night on the roof of a Land Rover.

We had a good time, as always, at Kylesku. No matter the reason for our trip, it is still possible to find room for a bit of good scenery, good food and good company.

We will, no doubt, do it again at least once next year.

Everybody else should do it too, it is good for your soul.