TRIP 12. LOOKOUT FOR A MONACHYLE
It is over 11 years since we were last at Monachyle Mhor, one of our favourite places ever to stay and eat. Well past time that we were back, in fact. We had actually booked to go there for Sharon's birthday in March, but Covid intervened and it was not to be. They had agreed to change the date and now it was time to go. We were really looking forward to it.
A proper gourmet blog, this one. Lots of good food to look at and drool over.
Day 1 - Wednesday 9th September 2020
So, once we were ready. The plan was to take our time. We had bought a wee picnic at for the journey. That actually caused us our first problem. We were 20 minutes down the road, when we realised we had not taken anything to eat the picnic with. A swift detour into Bob's golf club at Carrbridge secured us a coupe of forks to be getting on with.
The second issue was the weather. The further we travelled, the worse the weather became. Drumochter Pass was almost apocalyptic.
Undaunted, we turned off the A9 at Trinafour and wound our way south on narrow, single track roads. We were looking for some brightness and a place for a picnic. We found both at a spot overlooking Dunalastair Water on the River Tummel. It was still a bit cool, so we ate in the car, but the view was nice and the improvement in weather was nice to see.
We somewhat mistakenly, carried on via Kinloch Rannoch. However, it was a really nice run in the sunshine, so we did not mind the detour. In fact, it was so pleasant that we might investigate a stay there some time in the future. We passed the Dunalastair Suites on the corner in the village and they looked good. Bob also thought that Dunalastair might have been the name of the grand house where his grandmother Jean had worked in the 1920's. When he got home, he found he was mistaken - again! It was Crosscraig Lodge. As a matter of interest, he looked it up, but could not find it. This had happened before, so that was no surprise. However, he stumbled across Croiscrag lodge, on the south side of Loch Rannoch, so he would know where to look, if we do go back.
Before too long we were winding our way along the side of Loch Voil on the way from Balquhidder to Monachyle Mhor. The name of Loch Voil is probably derived from the Gaelic Beo, which means lively - perhaps describing a choppy bit of water.
Balquhidder is where Rob Roy MacGregor is buried.
Our home for the next couple of days.
We checked in, got to our room and made a cup of tea in front of the gas fire in our room. We could have had a free cup of tea in the lounge, but we were happy in the room to begin with.
Looking out over the Lookout.
We wandered about a bit and Sharon found a swing to have a go on. Given Bob fell off the last tree swing he was on, he decided against having a shot.
Then it was time to head back to the hotel to relax before dinner.
There was a bottle of Raasay Gin, a hot bath and some cashew nuts waiting for us in our room, so no hanging about.
We really were here for the food. It was fabulous when we were last here and the reputation of the kitchen is undimmed since then, so we had high hopes.
We were not disappointed.
We had a Harris Gin in the bar and a chat with the sommelier regarding which wine we might have, given that we had chosen wildly differing courses from the menu. The solution was separate glasses of red and white for us both and then it was through to the dining room.
We had ordered three courses, but that would haven been too simple. The first plate that came through was a play on a Scottish breakfast. A small vegetarian haggis bonbon sat underneath the smallest piece of potato scone all with crispy bacon crumbs and a whisky sauce. It was lovely.
Next up was a moist chicken terrine, with a black pudding crumb and little dobs of chicken liver pate. The pate was the star - real depth of flavour and as smooth as you could wish for.
Bob's first course was a perfectly cooked breast of pigeon on top of foie gras, celeriac and spiced aubergine. I really liked this despite my aversion to aubergine.
Sharon had a burrata and heritage tomato salad with basil and a sour dough crisp. She professed herself delighted with her choice.
Next we were presented with a little cup of Roasted cauliflower soup with a hazelnut and oil dressing. This was really delicious.
Bob's main of Scotch beef, purple broccoli and summer black truffle. Heavens, but this was good. The beef was so tender. Underneath was a slice of slow cooked beef, which was even more tender. The mash was a delight and the jus magnificent. A triumph.
Sharon had Isle of Gigha Halibut with leeks and a black pudding crumb. She also enjoyed her main a lot.
After a bit of a rest, we both had the same dessert - Hazelnut and chocolate pave, Glengoyne strawberry and hazelnut brittle. This was wonderful. The pave was so indulgent and tasty. The strawberry surprised even Sharon as the whisky marinade was not strong at all. Really very good indeed.
The courses are not huge, which is just as well, as you need to leave room for the petit fours. Today we had coconut choux buns, fudge and chocolate and rosemary ganache.
Wow, what a meal.
After that, there was nothing for it but to go to bed and get some sleep before it was time for breakfast! So, that is what we did.
Day 2 Thursday 10th September 2020
It was a bit on the grey side when we woke up and there was a threat of rain in the air. It was supposed to be the best day of our stay, so we had decided to go for a walk to the end of the road, beyond Loch Doine. To undertake that, we had to be sure that we were well fuelled for the day. Our intention was not to have a lunch today, given there was another big dinner on the cards for the evening. There were some nice compotes, yoghurts, cereals and granola on offer, which Sharon took advantage of. Bob did have the prune and Earl Grey compote, because he really loves prunes. Then he had a proper breakfast, and very good it was too. There was no danger of him wasting away on our trek up the glen..
We had a look about the garden after breakfast and before we got walking. This is an experimental modular building that could be used for housing, hotels, meetings - any number of things. The modules can stack on top of each other as here, or can be flat on the ground and joined that way, so the possibilities are limited by imagination only. It was quite smart and you can book a stay in it if you like.
After that look at some modern architecture, we headed off up the glen. You get some nice views back over Loch Voil from the road.
Not too far along the road, we came upon this sign for a Memorial Garden. We could not find out too much about it, but it turned out it was instituted by the Chef/Owner's mother some little while ago.
It was beginning to rain a bit, so we thought we might have a look. It was very overgrown and some of the bridges and railings were in disrepair.
We could only find one memorial and that was unnamed, but seemed to be for a child.
It was a nice spot and with some care and attention would be worth a visit. There are nice views, I am sure, when the mist lifts.
On up the glen we went. It was very quiet, which is something to be treasured in these days. Often the noisiest thing would be the ever present sheep, which seemed to find us very interesting.
There clearly had been some settlement up the glen in the past. However, all my usual sources of information failed to tell me anything about what this might have been.
The view back the way just kept on opening up.
It also changed quite dramatically with the weather, although we managed to stay dry.
It was still very quiet and sometimes the plaintive mewling of a buzzard was all that disturbed the silence.
There were some other birds about, like this delightful little Stonechat.
We were getting near the end of the road.
Although we were still dry, the previous rains were showing themselves in cataracts rushing down the hillsides.
At the end of the road, there is an old farm and steading. There is evidence of an old township nearby as well. Rob Roy MacGregor is locally reputed to have lived here at Inverlochlarig. I cannot vouchsafe this local legend and it is not dismissed by well respected sources.
There is quite a nice tin crinkly roofed barn. I liked the contrast between the roof and the stone walls.
We had a wee snack in the shelter at the end of the public road. You can sit at the picnic bench and watch the comings and goings on the road outside. Of course, there weren't many of either when we were there.
Inverlochlarig is, nowadays, more famous for venison than for outlaws.
The weather looked like it might close in, so we headed back to the hotel.
We were watched by a couple of buzzards catching the up draught on the edge of the hill.
Back to the hotel again for a well deserved bath, gin and rest, before an equally well deserved and expected dinner.
Our first amuse bouche tonight was a tomato sorbet, cucumber gel, crispy basil leaf. It was very intense and fresh.
The second amuse bouche tonight was sweet potato pannacotta with ginger, chilli, coriander and coconut. Surprisingly good considering that sweet potato is not exactly my favourite food on earth.
Bob had pigeon again to start with pork brawn and celeriac. Tasty.
Sharon had salmon, harissa and spinach, which she thought was very good
The little soup offering today was Leek and potato with a walnut dressing.
We both had the herbed chicken, black pudding, salsify and summer black truffle. Lovely.
We had different puddings tonight, but we did share them.
On the left was chocolate and pistachio mousse, almond truffle and raspberry sorbet. On the right, Garden plum frangipane, bitter orange and orange marmalade ice cream.
Once again, these were just fabulous.
More petit fours to finish again.
Pink peppercorn madeleine's, coffee and hazelnut ganache and tablet. A lovely end to another lovely meal.
Day 3 Friday 11th September.
Breakfast the next morning was taken in the shadow of absolutely belting rain, but it was very good again. However, we were on our way home after a couple of truly historic meals. We will be back a bit quicker than we managed the last time.
Once we packed up, we set off towards the A9 - Dunkeld , in fact. By the time we got there, it had cleared up and it was warm and bright. As we have done before, we went to the fabulous Aran bakery. Aran is Gaelic for bread and they know how to make it that's for sure. Bob had a harissa feta and wilted sprouting broccoli sandwich, while Sharon had a baguette with hummus and pickle. We went down to the river and sat in the sun to eat these delights.
A fine end to this short break - looking forward to the next one.
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